Thank heavens we left for Koufinissia the next morning. It is one of a group of small islands in the eastern Cyclades, sparsely populated and with very little amenities. We circled Koufinissia, swimming, tanning and walking. Well, me walking, as the Greeks do NOT walk up the hills!! They think me stark raving mad, but with the beautiful valleys and fragrance of wild herbs, it is just so delightful. Then we left for Schinoussa where we docked at a minute little quay, and Nikos and I immediately went exploring. There was one fishing boat, and one other yacht, but what fascinated us was a young boy hitting something floppy on the cement. With Nikos as my interpreter I learned that the floppy thing was a squid. First he took out the inc sac and the intestines, after which it was hit on the cement until it foams. Then it is rolled on the cement for a while, then rinsed, and all this he explained to tinos, to soften the meat. We left Spiros, as he told us he was called to his task and went for breakfast at a small white house where two tables on the verandah were sporting bright red and white check tablecloths. The old woman, fierce of eye and toothless took our orders after explaining that her idea of breakfast was bread and tiri. She then startled us by letting out a shrill 'SPIROS' that echo-ed through the hills, and we saw Spiros put the squid in an enamel bucket, and rushed to her side. Poor boy, his grandmother was a real slavedriver, and he had to lay the tables and serve us with the old battle ax breathing in his neck talking all the time in a menacing tone of voice. Then Spiros had to go and milk the goat we saw tethered just below the stairs for milk to put in our coffee. Oh it was all so idilic, and Nikos and I went to see the milking, where he told Spiros proudly that in Athens the milk comes from a bottle! He was absolutely dumbstruck at this strange way of getting milk! We were served the coffee, and was again startled when the Gran and grandson left us and walked up the hillside, the old woman talking heatedly all the time, helping her body get up the steep hill with a sturdy walking stick. We were still puzzling over this strange behaviour when they re-appeared, driving about twenty goats before them. Then the strangest thing happened, as they drove the goats straight to the sea, where they were made to jump off the low cliffs and into the water, and we wondered why they were drowning the poor things, as they did not seem to own much in materialistic things. The goats who tried to escape this ordeal were picked up bodily and thrown over the cliff! But, strange as it may seem, the goats started swimming for the shore, where they walked nonchalantly from the water and made for the safety of the hills. On Yannis's question about this strange happenings, Spiros said they do it to get rid of tics! Waau!